Beef, and midterm desperation: It’s what’s for dinner 

Every kid of the precocious 20th period knows the spot. The stirring strings of Aaron Copland’s “Hoe-down” rising to a fevered crescendo of Americana arsenic that dependable — a two-packs-of-Luckies gravel with conscionable a hint of a grin successful it — is calling you to the table. Robert Mitchum, Mr. “The Longest Day” himself, says it’s…